It is important to avoid direct sunlight. Unfiltered UV rays cause colours to fade and sooner or later will damage wood, lacquer and varnish, fabrics and leather. You should therefore avoid placing the furniture in direct sunlight if your rooms permit this. However, if your furniture is exposed to sunlight you can protect it by curtains – sunblock curtains are the most effective – and keep them closed during periods of intense sunlight. In order to avoid shadows and traces left by intense rays of sunlight, for the first few weeks you should not place any objects on a newly purchased piece of furniture. By the way, wood from coniferous trees is especially sensitive to light. Furniture should always be placed at a suitable distance from central heating radiators or other sources of heat or cold. All cleaning and polishing agents should first always be tested on a part of the furniture which is not in direct view.
Humidity and room temperatures have a decisive effect on the product life of wood, leather and upholstery. The ideal conditions are humidity of 50% to 60% and a constant room temperature of 20°C. Under these conditions wood does not shrink or expand, which means that the formation of cracks is avoided. However, fortunately flats and houses are not laboratories in which conditions are always the same and there are no fluctuations in temperature and humidity. When rooms are heated in
winter the air is often dry and warm, and when in springtime a warm breeze comes in through the window it brings humidity with it. The fact that natural materials react to theseconditions is a perfectly normal phenomenon. As a result, when you heat and ventilate your home you should not just think about your own well-being – your furniture, too, also appreciates balanced ambient climatic conditions.
The properties of the material facilitate the removal of stains.
The material has a nanoparticle surface that effectively blocks the penetration of dirt. Thus, even stubborn stains can be removed without detergents.
A unique combination of properties, Easy Clean and Pet Friendly.
This makes it very easy to remove hair, at the same time prevents them from penetrating into the interior of the material. They also provide high scratch resistance.
The properties of the material make it difficult to absorb spilled liquids.
The material has a special hydrophobic protective coating that protects against rapid seepage of liquids.
GENERAL CARE OF WOODEN SURFACES
As a natural material, wood remains alive even after the manufacturing process. It is basically undemanding in terms of care, because after all even under natural conditions trees are exposed to wind, sun, rain and temperature fluctuations. In most cases it is enough to dust wooden furniture regularly with a clean, soft and lint-free cloth. Surfaces can be revitalised by treating them with furniture polish, which has a cushioning effect and absorbs the pressure of the cloth. It also ensures that no scratches are caused during dusting. Regardless of whether you clean the surface with or without polish, you should change the cloth regularly because a dirty cloth can scratch the surface of your furniture. For successful use of furniture polish you should cover the surface of the furniture evenly but not too generously with the polish. Less is more, and it is better to repeat the polishing process as required. You should always work the polish in the direction of the grain and keep on polishing without too much pressure until the surface is completely dry. This will ensure an attractive gloss and a dirt-resistant surface. Open-grained types of wood such as oak and ash should not be wiped with a damp cloth, because the moisture can enable dust and dirt to enter the pores of the wood.
TRICKS FOR TREATING DAMAGE TO WOODEN FURNITURE
Removing rings left by glass
You should wipe away water stains immediately and then rub the affected area dry. Waxed surfaces can simply be treated with ‚Naturholz-Pflege-Wachs‘ (Natural Care Wax). Stubborn grey stains and water or alcohol marks on clear varnish surfaces can be removed or at least significantly diminished by ‚Möbel-Kur‘. (Furniture Care, article-number: 25002)
Abrasions and scratches
Abrasions and scratches on polished wood can be removed by dabbing the affected areas several times with a mixture of simple clear vinegar (vinegar essence must always be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer‘s instructions) and an equal proportion of neutral oil, and then repeated rubbing with a soft woollen cloth. Deep scratches can be filled with furniture wax with a matching colour shade. Depending on the surface they should be protected with lacquer or glaze, e.g. „Möbel-Kur“ (Furniture Care, article-number: 25002).
Pressure marks and dents
Dents are not a disaster: gently sand down any pressure marks with sandpaper, moisten the dent and then iron it out with a moist cloth and an iron. The cloth must be sufficiently damp and the iron must not come into direct contact with the wood.
After the surface has dried out completely you seal it again.
Changes in the nap of velour fabric
The effects of pressure, moisture and warmth as well as the type of base upholstery and cover may lead to more or less visible changes in the nap, which are generally referred to as ‚shiny areas‘. Depending on the way the light falls on them these areas can have the appearance of stains, in particular with velour materials. Such changes in the nap are typical for a certain type of fabric and do not represent any reduction in quality. Experience shows that they can‘t always be removed, even by treatment.
Special care for wool, cotton, linen and silk
Vacuum the material and occasionally treat it with furniture shampoo or a foamed mild detergent. For cleaning you should only use distilled water. Silk should always be dry cleaned because otherwise water stains could form!
You first remove any dirt and dust with a brush or vacuum cleaner. After that you check the colour fastness of the upholstery and the suitability of the cleaning product by applying it to an area which is not directly visible. If no visible traces are produced you can begin with the treatment. Use a soft and clean white cloth. After soaking it in the stain remover you carefully rub the stain until it is no longer visible.
SPECIAL TIPS FOR UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE
If candle wax has dripped onto your furniture it should first be allowed to go completely cold. You can then crumble the wax deposit and try to remove the individual pieces with care. If necessary you can subject the wax to several treatments with cleaner‘s naphtha (after first checking its suitability in a place which is not directly in view!). A tried-and-tested method is
to iron out the wax using lots of blotting paper, but without the steam function of the iron. Repeat the ironing process until no more traces of wax appear on the blotting paper.
You should immediately apply salt or talcum powder to damp stains and then allow it to take effect so that the moisture doesn‘t spread. Allow the stain to dry and then brush well. Water stains will disappear if you moisten a brush with white vinegar and brush the stains, and then rubbing them with a moist household cloth.
Indentations on the carpet
Articles of furniture leave indentations on many carpets with their feet and edges. These are easy to remove: all you do is take a few ice cubes from the freezer and place these on the indentations. As a result of the moisture which is released by the melting ice cubes the nap of the carpet gradually rises again.Hot steam will also raise the nap of the carpet again. For this purpose you
should ideally use a steam cleaner, but an iron will also do the job. Place a towel or tea towel on the indentation and iron the section of carpet under the towel at a low temperature. As the moisture penetrates the carpet the nap will begin to rise again. This trick works especially well with carpets made of natural materials such as wool.
Treating soluble stains such as blood or egg
Blood and egg stains should only be treated with cold water. Because egg white clots, hot water would only do more damage. If treatment with water is not successful you can treat the stain with a solution of water and shampoo. In the case of dried blood stains a citric acid solution can be applied, with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice to 100 ml of cold water. With this solution you moisten a soft cloth and then, without applying pressure, dab the stain, gradually working from the edges towards the middle.
Treatment of non-soluble stains such as fat, paint, lacquer or shoe polish
Fat, paint, lacquer or shoe polish can only be treated with commercially available solvents such as cleaner‘s naphtha or alcohol.
Solvents can have a negative effect on the fabric and should therefore be tested on an area which is not in direct view. In case of doubt you are welcome to consult our staff.
Removing animal hair
In order to remove the hair left behind by your dog or cat you simply brush your upholstered furniture with a rubber brush.
Absorption of smells
In order to absorb unpleasant smells (e.g. in the drawers or cupboards) you can fill a bowl with ground coffee and place this in the relevant location. The coffee neutralises any smells. Alternatively you can use slices of lemon placed in water, or a bowl of warm milk.
Removing stains from microfibre fabrics
In order to remove stains from microfibre fabrics you can use the following technique: First use a sponge to soak the stain for a short time with soapy water. Avoid rubbing too strenuously, otherwise the stain could grow larger. After that you simply scoop up the dirty water together with the stain by drawing a spoon with light pressure towards a towel.
Simply spray the mark with hairspray, allow it to dry and then wipe it clean. Your upholstered furniture will no longer show any traces of ballpoint ink. If the mark doesn‘t disappear completely during the first application, simply apply a second time.
Cleaning upholstered furniture completely sometimes requires several treatments.
GENERAL TIPS ON THE CARE OF LEATHER FURNITURE
Please note the following special instructions for the care of special types of leather. They apply to rough leathers such as nappa leather, nubuck or suede and open-pored smooth leathers such as aniline leather.
CARE OF NAPPA LEATHER
Before and after the winter heating period your furniture can be damp-wiped with a leather-cleaning product or saddle soap.
In order to maintain the suppleness of the leather, after the cleaning process you should rub leather milk or foam into the surface.
In addition to leather milk, leather conditioning cream, dubbin, leather oil, leather balsam and leather sealing products are also available. In the case of spots and stains you should not use a stain remover which contains solvents. These attack the leather, discolor it and dry out the material.
In addition to normal leather milk, the suppleness of the leather can lso be stimulated by a mixture of linseed oil and beaten egg white, which is highly suitable for maintaining the elasticity of nappa leather with a dyed surface.
CARE OF NUBUCK LEATHER
Nubuck leather can be protected against dirt but make sure you use suitable products. Your nubuck leather can be wiped clean as required with a little water and saddle soap, making sure that not too much moisture is applied. After the cleaning process with water and saddle soap it is advisable to lightly brush the nap with a special brush for nubuck leather in order to maintain the condition of the entire surface. You will find suitable brushes at shoe shops, for example. In cleaning nubuck leather you should avoid using any kind of cream or polish, because this will negatively affect the velvety surface of the leather.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR SUEDE
When it is new the roughened surface of suede releases a kind of leather dust. This is normal and is a result of the production methods involved. You can remove this dust with a special sponge or cleaning cloth, or brush it off with a leather brush.
After a certain amount of time the release of these fine leather dust particles comes to an end.
CARE OF ANILINE LEATHER
In the case of aniline leather the important thing is to avoid moisture, because the leather is open grained. Any spots or stains should be removed immediately with soft, absorbent paper or fabric cloth. After that you dab the spot or stain in a circular motion using a cloth moistened with distilled water. Do not use too much pressure, because otherwise the spot or stain will be forced increasingly deeper into the material. Finally you carefully wipe the surface once more with a dry cloth.
CARE OF METAL SURFACES
Chrome and nickel-plated surfaces
Any undesired oxide film (tarnished areas, black discoloration) can easily be removed from silver, brass, bronze, copper and chrome surfaces. You simply polish your precious article of furniture or accessory with silica, a natural and gentle polish. This treatment will also ensure that their metal surfaces are suitable for use in food preparation. The act of polishing at the same time serves to protect against early renewed tarnishing and discoloration. Before use the metal polish should be shaken well. Apply a sufficient quantity of polish to a dry cloth and distribute it over the entire surface. As the surface dries a grey coating of powder appears, which is then polished off with a soft cloth.
Stainless steel surfaces
Fingerprints and other surface dirt can best be removed with the aid of a microfibre cloth, which can be lightly moistened if necessary. Even a normal dishcloth is suitable for this purpose. The cleaning effect is increased by the addition of a little dishwashing liquid which dissolves grease. After each cleaning operation stainless steel surfaces should be dried thoroughly with a lint-free cloth.
Unsuitable cleaning agents
Abrasive cleaning agents are not suitable for most metal surfaces. On stainless steel you should also avoid cleaning agents with a high proportion of disinfectant and bleach. The same applies to cleaning agents which contain acid, salt and chloride, which could have a negative effect on the resistance of the stainless steel to corrosion.
TIPS FOR METAL SURFACES
Be careful with brushed stainless steel
In the production of so-called brushed stainless steel the surface is ground in such a way that a matt look is created. In order to maintain this special surface structure, brushed stainless steel must always be wiped with the grain of the surface.
Preventing renewed stains and dirt
Special products for stainless steel care create a microscopically thin protective coating on the stainless steel surface and form a film which also withstands normal cleaning. This film for the most part prevents new fingerprints and other forms
of dirt showing on the stainless steel.
CARE OF GLASS SURFACES
Glass surfaces should be wiped clean with water and a little washing-up liquid as required, using a soft cloth or chamois leather cloth. Glass cleaning products are also suitable. These are sprayed on the surface and then wiped off with a soft cloth
or paper towel. Glass can also be scratched, and so objects with sharp edges or rough surfaces should not be placed directly on a glass surface. Apply felt pads to the base of any decorative objects placed on the glass.